As I return from my travels I hope to share some stories to compliment the photographs. Stay tuned to hear about my latest adventure..
Eclipse Viewing in the Tetons
Is everyone still tired of hearing about the Great American Eclipse? Don't care. Still going to talk about it.
I admit, the hype leading up to the eclipse was a little ridiculous. It seems anything can be commercialized these days. I tried to avoid as much of that as I could and just focused on the event itself. I didn't need any cheesy souvenirs to mark the occasion. I was just interested in witnessing firsthand an event that I have never seen before and, most likely, will never see again. At least not so close to home. Having had a front row seat to a total lunar eclipse a could of years ago and being in awe of that I knew that I just had to see the solar eclipse from the path of totality. Even if it meant the possibility of dealing with large crowds and horrible traffic to do so.
So I set off with a rough plan, trying to make the most of an expectedly hectic trip. After an early departure Saturday morning I arrived in the Teton valley with one task in mind – find a campsite. In the weeks leading up to the event the local newspaper had been reporting that the crowds had arrived earlier than expected and were taking a toll on the city's resources. Grocery stores running out of food, gas stations planning extra fuel deliveries to keep up with demand, hotels sold out months in advance. My hopes of finding a quiet secluded campsite were fading fast. I had a plan, a back up plan and a back up back up plan for the trip so I was trying to be openminded. Never dreamed that I'd end up getting to camp within a quarter mile of my ideal spot. Especially since, upon my arrival, it seemed that every campsite had already been claimed. I just happened to time it right and came upon a campsite just as the current occupants were packing up and leaving. I quickly moved in (they didn't mind, they understood that campsites were in high demand) and rejoiced at my good luck. At this point my stress level about the trip dropped dramatically and stayed pretty calm for the duration. While Grand Teton Park and the town of Jackson were a bit busier than normal everything seemed to be going well. The park service, forest service and local first responders had been planning for months how to handle the crowds and I must compliment them all. I have to think that their heightened presence in the area kept the chaos to a minimum. While the park was busy and parking spots were in short supply I did manage to get out for a hike, do a little moose hunting and even managed to snag dinner reservations at one of my favorite restaurants in Jackson.
The day of the eclipse was a little rushed as I had to do a little last minute DIY work to make a filter for my camera. I had purchased a filter over a year ago in preparation of the eclipse and found out a week before that it wasn't the correct filter. Since every local camera shop and every website was sold out at this point I had to get creative. I channeled my inner “MacGyver” and fashioned a solar filter out of a pair of eclipse glasses, a heavyweight paper shopping bag and some duct tape. I cut the bag up to make a face plate and centered half of the pair of glasses into that then taped a paper sleeve to the backside that then slipped over the end of the lens. I was pretty proud of my little homemade filter. And while I'm sure I could have gotten better pictures with a proper lens filter I don't think I did too bad all things considered.
After cooking breakfast and packing up most of my campsite I walked across the road to an open meadow with a view of the Tetons to watch the eclipse. There were several groups of campers in the area and the excited chatter from them grew and grew as the moon's shadow progressed. I was happily snapping pictures, trying not to forget to take it all in and observe not only the sun but the surrounding area. The changes on land were just as amazing as the changes in the sky. When totality started everyone in the area started cheering and yelling. I, on the other hand, was speechless. It was so amazing. I wished that it would have lasted longer – being just north of the center of totality I had about ninety seconds to enjoy it. When the sun started to reappear I couldn't help but think “I can't wait to see this again!” So I suppose a little road trip may be in order for April 2024.
Once the eclipse was over it was time to head home. I had warned my coworkers that I wasn't sure when I'd return to work as I was expecting traffic to be horrible. Again, even with all the hype, the crowds were nowhere near what I was expecting. I sailed north through Yellowstone with only a small delay getting through the south entrance gate. There weren't even any buffalo jams to hold me back. I made it home in record time. All in all the trip was a success – no major traffic, no problems finding a campsite, and I got a decent amount of pictures to remind me of the day. Can't ask for much more than that.
Yellowstone Park Top 5 List
One might think that keeping your favorite places in such a busy park as Yellowstone a secret would be wise but most of my favorite spots are pretty mainstream so there's no harm in sharing. I just hope that everyone obeys the rules and practices safe viewing and safe photography guidelines on the their visit. These are the spots that I can visit again and again and never tire of the sights and sounds.
Porcelain Basin, Norris Geyser Basin
Norris Geyser Basin is one of the hottest, most active places in Yellowstone. There's a little bit of everything here - geysers, steam vents, fumaroles, pools, mudpots. While the entire area is worth exploring (there's over 3 miles of boardwalks) my favorite spot in Norris is Porcelain Basin and the overlook near Nyphar Lake at the northeast extent of the boardwalk, about a quarter mile northeast of the Norris Museum building. There is so much going on is this little corner of the basin. Stop and listen for a minute. There are several thermal features here under constant activity. Steam hissing out of one vent little a teakettle. Mud bubbling out of another pool. Turquoise water next to rusty orange pools. And all of this changes seasonally at the water levels in the basin change. And if the thermal features here aren't enough then there's always the snowy peaks of the Gallatin Range in the distance.
Brink of Lower Falls, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone
Forget Artist Point and Inspiration Point and Uncle Tom's Trail in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. The best views to behold are at Brink of Lower Falls. Its the first stop on the north canyon rim drive. The trail is a little rough (and due for a makeover like the rest of the trails in canyon, I hope) and steep (you'll descend 250 feet in half a mile) but the hike is very much worth the effort. At the end of the trail you're standing right beside the Yellowstone River as it crashes over 300 feet to the bottom of the canyon. The noise and the power of the river is amazing. And the views of the canyon from this perspective, halfway down the side of the canyon walls, is breathtaking. Whether you visit in the early spring when the ice built up at the base of the falls creates a "bridge" across the canyon, in the early summer when the water flow is high and the noise of the falls is deafening or later in the summer when its a bit calmer you won't be disappointed.
Geyser Hill, Upper Geyser Basin
Everyone knows the star of Upper Geyser Basin, Old Faithful, but how many never take the time to explore the area beyond the heavily trafficked boardwalk and viewing area between the visitor center and Old Faithful? The loop along Geyser Hill north of Old Faithful can be just as amazing - especially if you're lucky enough to catch an eruption of Beehive Geyser (my personal favorite geyser) or Lion Geyser Group. Standing on the boardwalk, a few yards away from the geysers as they are erupting is an amazing experience. The noise and the power that you witness is unbelievable. And then there's Anemone and Aurum and Ear Spring and Pump and....well, you get the idea. Its a beautiful place to see. The boardwalk extends further, and is well worth exploring if you have the time, to even more amazing places like Castle Geyser, Grand Geyser, Riverside Geyser, Morning Glory Pool and all the way to Biscuit Basin. I've explored the entire boardwalk and trail system at one time or another and I am always treated to something new - different geysers erupting at just the right time or wildlife (bears, bison, elk and coyote) wandering through.
Grand Prismatic Spring, Midway Geyser Basin
With Grand Prismatic Spring being the largest thermal pool in Yellowstone it's no wonder why it is one of the most visited and photographed spots in the park. Whether you view it close up from the Midway Geyser Basin boardwalk or a little higher up from the new viewing platform along the Fairy Falls hiking trail you will see an amazing sight. The steam coming off the geyser can sometimes be a little overwhelming and obscure any photograph so be patient and wait for the wind (which is fairly frequent and strong so hold on to your hats) to clear the view. One day I hope to be able to see Grand Prismatic Spring from the air for the ultimate view - from a charted sightseeing airplane, of course, and not from an illegal drone/quadcopter.
Mammoth Campground, Mammoth Hot Springs
Okay, so a campground may not seem that thrilling but if you plan on camping in Yellowstone in the fall this is the place to be. There is a large number of elk that frequent the area in and around Mammoth. In the fall you can be at the epicenter of the rut here in the campground. I've camped here many nights and I love sitting by my campfire listening to the bull elk bugling in the valley. Don't plan on getting much sleep if you happen to visit during a full moon - the elk will be roaming around and bugling throughout the night. Its definitely something to experience and always fun trying to determine where each bull is in the valley as they all have a unique bugle that they repeat over and over. On one trip I was able to distinguish five different bulls based on their calls and relative location and listened to them for several hours as they roamed around. And as a word of caution, always keep your distance from the wildlife. The Park Service advises staying 25 yards/23 meters from most wildlife but I tend to stay a little further back during the rut - their behavior cam be even more unpredictable than normal so better safe than sorry! The elk will invade the campground from time to time so be patient and wait at a safe distance while they wander through. Its not uncommon to be stuck in your tent or car or in the restroom for several minutes while they graze in among the campsites.
Grand Teton Moose-keteers
Photography is mostly about luck and being at the right place at the right time as far as I can tell. This summer just wasn't for me. Everywhere I went something just wasn't working in my favor - bad weather, forest fires, smoky skies, traffic. That's not to say that I didn't get a few lucky shots, just that I really had to work for what I did get.
One of my best moments of the entire summer was during a trip to Grand Teton National Park in August. The area had been plagued with smoky haze from wildfires across the west and doing any landscape photography was out of the question. Most days you couldn't even see the mountains! I ventured around the park, seeking out my favorite spots to see wildlife. And I lucked out when I stopped to check one area where I typically find moose. No sooner than I turned off the ignition in my car, I spotted a nice bull moose. He was a little ways out so I thought I'd just wander around and see if he would venture any closer. As I was scanning the areas around him I spotted two more bulls! I ended up spending close to two hours watching them and photographing them. And it paid off. The second and third bull ventured out of the willows right in front of me and I was able to get a few great shots of them as they walked past. By this time quite a crowd had gathered - I had been the only one there when I arrived and by the time the two bulls made their appearance there were close to twenty vehicles stopped along the road.
Now I'm fairly certain that these three bulls are the same ones I've been following for a few years now. Every trip to the Tetons I stop at the same spot and there is usually three bulls and maybe a cow or two grazing through the willows. I've seen them on several occasions over the last five years or so. There are two that don't seem to mind the flock of tourists that gather to take their photos and one that tends to hang back, away from the crowds. On this trip that shy one is one of the bulls that walked right in front of me. I've never gotten a good picture of him before, usually just a glimpse of his head through the willows 100 yards or more away. I've dubbed these three bulls my "three moose-keteers".
Later that evening I stopped by to see if they were still out and sure enough I saw one of the bulls in the willows. There was a cow moose nearby too. She had to have been hiding earlier that afternoon! Some folks were wandering by and asked what I saw so I pointed out the bull and cow to them. Turns out they were visiting from Italy and had never seen a moose before in their lives! I let them use my binoculars so they could get a closer look, they were so excited. That was the second highlight of my trip (the first being the encounter with the bulls earlier that day) and I was so glad to share that experience with them.
The next morning I stopped again to see if they happened to still be hanging out in the same area but no luck. Just a little further down the road I saw something in the shadows so I pulled over to check it out. Two more bull moose napping in the shade of some trees! Now at the time I thought that these two were the same ones I had seen the day before but after I got home and was able to review my pictures I figured out that they were two different bulls! The antlers were just different enough that I was able to ID them. Elsewhere on the trip I spotted two other bulls so in two days I saw a grand total of five bull moose and one cow. One of my best "moose hunting" trips I've had in a while.
Hiking in my back yard - the Bridger Mountains
I spend so much of my time traveling across the state for my camping and photography adventures that I rarely take the time to enjoy the areas closer to home. At least once a year I try to take a trip somewhere close by, usually an hour or less from home. This summer's adventure was to camp near Fairy Lake in the Bridger Mountains and hike up Sacagawea Peak, the highest peak in the Bridgers. I tend to travel a little further from town as the crowds at the closer, easier accessible areas tend to be a little too heavy on the weekends. While the area was busy it was relatively peaceful. And you can't beat the views.
The hike up Sacagawea Peak starts out innocently enough, a nice dirt path winding through the trees, but quickly turns to a little more challenging trail. Not too far into the hike you break out of the trees and really start to climb. Then you get to the first ridge and are faced with unbelievably cold wind blowing over the range. At least the trail levels out for a while at this stage. Then you begin the final scramble, zigzagging up the trail covered in loose bits of rock. The views are amazing and make the trek worthwhile - you can see for miles and miles in all directions. I was not fortunate enough to see any mountain goats, one of the few areas in the state that the creatures call home, but I was rewarded with the great views and lots of wildflowers. I almost wanted to stay a while longer to take it all in, unfortunately I had only packed a light fleece jacket and was quickly cooling down thanks to the unending wind.
I can't believe it took me almost a decade to make this trip!
4th of July in the Gravelly Range
Time for my annual trek to the Gravelly Mountain Range in southwest Montana. I love this area, especially in July when the wildflowers all bloom. The flowers only last a few weeks at this altitude so timing is everything. The mosquitoes and flies, however, last all summer.
There's not usually a lot of animals at this altitude - around 9,000 ft - but this year I spotted a few elk, deer, and grizzly bears. I was just settling down by my campfire when I heard something in the trees nearby. Next thing I know a deer pops out and walks right by me. A few minutes later another one. Then all was quiet. About an hour later I heard something again and swear for the amount of noise I was hearing I expected a T-Rex to come out of the trees but it was just a few deer. Amazing how much noise their little hooves can make! They wandered back through my camp later that night after I had gone to bed. Hearing random footsteps outside the tent always gets the heart pounding!
The next morning on my travels I stopped at a spot just a few miles away from camp to take a look around when the thought crossed my mind that this was the only spot in the entire mountain range where I have seen a grizzly bear. This area is prime grizzly country with many sightings reported throughout the year but I had only ever seen one. Just as I finished that thought I spotted something moving in the tall grass below me. It was a grizzly roaming around and eating some of the wildflowers. Now I was relatively safe viewing from a distance atop a steep cliff so I just stayed where I was and enjoyed watching the bear. After a few minutes I lost track of the grizzly and started scanning the area, trying to locate it. that's when I spotted a second grizzly! No wonder the first bear moved out of the area, it probably heard or smelled the other grizzly and decided to move away. I thought it was a little ironic to see the bears in the same area as my previous sighting a year or two before. I'm just glad that I saw the bears in the morning and not the night before. Hearing those deer in my camp made me paranoid enough!
Since the bugs were extra annoying in the Gravellies I decided to take a little side trip for my second night of camping and headed a little further north. I still had to deal with tons of mosquitoes buzzing around and deer wandering through camp but at least there wasn't any bears (that I know of).
