Watchman at sunset, Zion NP Let me start by saying that when planning for this trip I was looking forward to Zion National Park the most.  From reports from friends to photos from various professionals, I was in awe at Zion and the beautiful scenes that it held.  I don't know if my expectations grew to a point that Zion just couldn't live up to what I wanted it to be or if I picked a bad time to visit.  Maybe both.  After enjoying the relative peace of the other parks for the last week I wasn't prepared for the utter chaos that was Zion. 

From the moment I arrived to the moment I left I was stuck in bumper to bumper traffic, dodging cars parked haphazardly alongside the road and cruising through overcrowded parking lots hopelessly looking for an available space.  Sure, the park was beautiful - the little bit I got to see while cruising along the roads.  I couldn't actually stop anywhere to get out of the car and enjoy the views.  I was so discouraged by the chaos that I was contemplating leaving the park and either heading for home a day early or heading back to Bryce Canyon.  In the end I decided to stay in Zion and get a fresh start the next morning, hoping that if I got out early enough I could beat the crowds.

After a good night's sleep I set off from my camp on the East side of the park just before sunrise.  When I arrived at the visitor center on the West side the parking lot was already about half full.  I quickly gathered up my pack and set off for the shuttle bus queue.  I started off the day by hiking to the Emerald Pools.  The best part of that hike was the fall foliage on the trees lining the trail - not something I get to enjoy here in Montana.  After that I headed down the Grotto trail and back to the shuttle bus.  I had thought about hiking Angels' Landing but after seeing it from the road I chickened out.  My fear of heights got the better of me.  The next hike I set off for was Riverside Walk.  It was an interesting area but difficult to photograph - narrow canyon with shadows on one side and bright sunlight on the other.  And it was busy much like the rest of the park.  After Riverside trail it was time to get back on the bus and head for home.  I had wasted so much time the day before navigating through traffic that I didn't get to do any exploring and my time in Zion was cut down to a half a day hiking.  I returned to the visitor center just after noon to find the parking lot full once again.

I left Zion that afternoon feeling disappointed, cheated.  I didn't get to see nearly as much of the park as I had hoped.  I didn't get any amazing photographs - I hardly got any photos.  Years ago when I had started planning this trip Zion was the only park I wanted to see, the other parks got added to the trip over the years out of geographic convenience.  I'm glad that I didn't come all this way just for Zion, visiting the other parks was the highlight of the trip.  As much as I hated to end the trip on a negative note I just couldn't find any way to salvage my experience in Zion.  Sure, I'm glad I got to see it.  I don't think I'll be returning anytime soon.  The other parks were much more  beautiful and much less crowded.  I'll be heading back to Utah again as I know there are still many other wonderful areas to explore.  Zion won't be on the itinerary for that trip.

Along the Queen's Garden trail I, Bryce Canyon NP After resting up in Kodachrome Basin State Park I set off for Bryce Canyon National Park on day 7.  It was a quick drive between the two locations - less than an hour - and I pulled up to the entrance station at Bryce early in the morning.  I was delighted to see that the informational sign at the station showed that there was vacancy in the campground.  At this point in my trip I was running blind - no more reservations with a guaranteed campsite from here on out!  I circled through the campground and picked out a suitable spot, paid and set off to explore Bryce.  I decided that the best strategy would be to drive to the end of the road and then stop along the return trip - that worked well in Arches NP so I figured the same would work here too. 

Upon my arrival at Rainbow Point, the end of the road, I was greeted with a chilling wind as I stepped out of my car.  Having spent the last few days hiking in sunny, 80 degree weather my body was a bit shocked by the windy conditions and 40 degree temperature here.  I had to unload my suitcase in the parking lot and dig out my warm gear then make a quick change in the restroom.  Not a pleasant experience but I wasn't going to let a little cold weather ruin my visit, I'd endured worse in Yellowstone and Grand Teton before.  Once I was sufficiently bundled up I set off to get my first real view of Bryce Canyon.  I had caught quick glimpses as I drove along the park road but for the most part the road is situated so that you can't see the canyon - maybe wise planning so as to discourage visitors from blocking the road to take pictures from their vehicles.  The view was amazing.  I was speechless as I walked up to the first view point along the canyon rim.  Bryce Canyon caught me by surprise and was quickly becoming my favorite park on this whole journey.  I wandered around Rainbow Point and Yovimpa Point and started back along the park road, stopping at every available turnout and view point to see the canyon.  Each stop was getting better and better with more amazing views, each one slightly different than the last.  Inspiration Point was definitely a highlight along with Natural Bridge, and Sunset and Sunrise Points.  I could have sat in any of these spots all day just to watch the light changing the views of the canyon.  I eventually decided on hiking the Navajo Loop Trail and Queen's Garden Trail despite my dread of having to climb back UP out of the canyon.  Being down among the hoodoos was well worth the effort and gave a whole new perspective to the landscape here.  I was amazed not only at the geology of the area but also that every nook and cranny of this landscape was home to massive Ponderosa Pines just clinging to the crumbling rock, fighting to stay alive.  I reluctantly started the slow climb back out of the canyon and headed back to camp for a quick dinner.  I had been looking forward to catching sunset in the park all week long and didn't want to miss it.  Mother Nature had other plans for me and shortly before sunset a massive rainstorm moved into the area, ruining any plans I had for the rest of the night.  I headed back to camp, set up in the rain and crawled into bed early as there wasn't much else to do.  I could tell this was going to be a rough night - the weather forecast was calling for a nighttime low of 15 degrees and with the rain I knew it was most likely Sunrise Point, Bryce Canyon NP to get even colder.  I hauled every blanket and piece of warm, dry clothing I had into my tent that night.  I was comfortable - more so than other campers as I heard a few cars start up in the middle of the night so that they could turn on the heater and take the chill off - but it wasn't exactly an ideal camping situation.  I ended up sleeping in several layers including having the foot of my sleeping bag stuffed into my zipped up winter jacket so that my feet stayed warm. 

After waking up the next morning and knocking the icicles off of my tent I packed up quickly so that I could catch sunrise in the canyon - I had been denied a sunset here and I wasn't about to miss sunrise!  It was beautiful and I wished I could stay in the park for weeks to see this again and again.  But after a couple of hours of wandering around Sunrise Point and Inspiration Point for a second time I had to tear myself away from beautiful Bryce and head for my next and final destination - Zion National Park.

Hoodoos III, Goblin Valley State Park UT The next leg of my Utah journey started with an uncommon reason for wanting to visit a place.  Vandalism.  Goblin Valley State Park is a place I only knew about because of the 2013 scandal involving a boy scout troop whose leaders decided to topple some of the hoodoos - or goblins - as they, in their "expert opinion", deemed the goblins to be unsafe.  The news story piqued my interest as the place did seem to be quite unique and worth a visit.  As it happened, it fit nicely into my route even though it is in the middle of nowhere, somewhere west of Canyonlands National Park.

After departing Moab early on the 4th day of my trip I arrived at Goblin Valley in the late morning.  I checked into camp and headed out immediately to see these goblins for myself.  The place was amazing.  Walking down the stairs into the valley seemed like I was descending into a different planet.  And I wasn't the first to have that impression - the 1999 sci-fi movie "Galaxy Quest" was filmed here.  While I agree that Goblin Valley makes a great movie set I think it would be an even better place to play a giant game of hide and seek.  Acres and acres of these strange goblins scattered about the landscape.  It would be so easy to get lost in here.  I greatly enjoyed wandering around among the goblins - next time I'll bring a few friends and spend the day hiding out.

Road to Goosenecks, Capitol Reef NP After a warm (finally!) night in Goblin Valley I set off for my next stop - Capitol Reef National Park and Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument.  I had slightly misjudged the distance I would be traveling on this day and didn't leave myself much time to stop and explore either location.  Given the recent developments with the downsizing of Escalante I do wish I would have allowed myself more time in this area.  Both Capitol Reef and Escalante were beautiful and I tried to take in as many of the roadside vistas as I could but I know I was only scratching the surface as to the beauty that is to be seen here.  I do hope to return to both someday soon and explore a bit of the backcountry.  Namely Cathedral Valley in Capitol Reef and Hole in Rock in Escalante.

I did manage to stop and see the pictographs in Capitol Reef, wander through the orchards in Fruita and started the hike to Calf Creek Falls but had to turn back due to weather and lack of time.  As I passed though the higher elevations of the Dixie National Forest I was a bit disappointed that I hadn't been there a week or two earlier when the fall foliage was at its peak.  When I drove through the trees were nearly all bare, leaving me to only imagine what it would have looked like with miles and miles of road surrounded with golden Aspen leaves.  I passed a few dirt roads that begged to be explored but they would have to wait for another time.  I had to be in a hurry to get to my next camp - Kodachrome Basin State Park.

Panorama Point, Kodachrome State Park Utah This was a last minute addition to my trip but I'm so glad I decided to take the time to stop here.  I had intended to use Kodachrome as my base camp for my next stop in Bryce Canyon National Park but when I arrived in Kodachrome I decided that it needed to be explored a bit as well.  The park is small and tucked out of the way not far from Bryce - you can actually see Bryce from a few vantage points in Kodachrome - and it has the cleanest campground I've ever seen in my life.  After a rainy morning I hiked around for most of the afternoon and covered most of the trails in the park.  The "Indian Cave" and its mysterious "handprints", the views from Panorama Point trail, Shakespeare Arch, and the Grand Parade trail.  It was all uniquely beautiful.  This little park was certainly an unexpected highlight of my trip.

After an exhausting day driving across three states I was ready to set out on the real adventure - visiting the first of the National Parks on my trip.  I woke to decidedly chilly temperatures in camp - an unwelcome morning ritual that would continue throughout the trip - and headed straight to Arches National Park.  Traffic in the park seemed light (compared to what I'm used to experiencing in Yellowstone) and I decided to head to the furthest section of Arches to begin my day at Devils Garden.  The sights along the drive through the park were amazing - nothing like I'm used to seeing here in Montana.  I couldn't resist the urge to stop and take a few quick snaps along the way.  There was road construction going on in most of park during my visit so making any roadside stops was a bit tricky.  Once at the Devils Garden Trailhead I set off to explore the area on foot.  Landscape Arch was beautiful - I only wish you were allowed to get a little closer to it and get a view from below.  I tried to continue on the "trail" further into the garden but I wasn't feeling too sure footed and after watching a few other visitors scrambling up the rocks on their hands and knees I decided to turn back.  It wasn't worth the risk of harming either myself or my camera gear.  I wandered through the garden from the other end of the loop trail and eventually made my way out as the crowds of people started to increase.  I stopped at Skyline Arch, Fiery Furnace, Panorama Point, Balanced Rock and viewed Park Avenue from afar.  With the road construction there was no access to the Park Avenue area so it was a little disappointing not to be able to explore that section of the park more thoroughly.

Mesa Arch, Canyonlands NP I took an opportunity to check into my next camp in Moab in the afternoon and beat the heat of midday hiking.  After a quick rest and a shower I was ready to set out once again and explore a bit of Canyonlands National Park.  I arrived at Mesa Arch just before sunset and stayed for a while to enjoy the view.  I watched a lone vehicle winding its way up the narrow trail of Shafer Canyon - wishing I could be down there driving as well.  I made a decision at this point to change my plans a bit.  When I started the trip I had thought that spending one day in each of the parks would be the best plan.  Between the visitation limits in Arches (7am to 7pm so that the road crews could work at night) and the vastness of Canyonlands I decided that I needed to rethink my original plan and focus on spending more time in Arches.  There was still more to explore there and Canyonlands was just too much to take in in one day.  A return trip with multiple days dedicated to Canyonlands will be needed to fully explore the area.  Ideally to drive the 100 miles of White Rim trail and camp out in the middle of the park somewhere.  I headed back to camp after dark and prepared for another day of hiking in Arches.

Up early on yet another chilly morning and I headed into Arches again.  First stop was the Windows area.  When I first arrived there was already two busloads of visitors milling about.  I wandered around, I tried to get a couple of photos with the fewest number of people obscuring the views and was just about to turn back and give up when I realized that the largest groups were leaving as well.  I hung back for a few minutes and lucky enough the entire area was cleared out.  Everyone left and I found myself all alone in the Windows.  Not knowing how long my good fortune would last I ran around frantically trying to get as many pictures as I could.  It was amazing.  I was already glad that I had decided to return to Arches for a second day of exploring.  After thoroughly checking out both North and South Windows and Turret Arch (which reminded me of the homes from the Flintstones cartoons) I dashed over to Double Arch to explore there a bit too. After that I headed out to tackle the hike to Delicate Arch.  When I arrived at the trailhead the parking lot was full.  I circled around a couple of times and Turret Arch, Arches NP luckily enough found an open spot.  I set off for Delicate Arch, watching the string of other hikers make their way up the open rock face that was the trail.  My arrival at Delicate Arch was both a delight and a disappointment.  The arch was a wonderful sight - perched out on the sandstone crest with the La Sal Mountains off in the distance - but the crowd of people milling about the base of it posing for pictures and taking selfies ruined the overall experience a bit.  Seems no one cared that their quest for a selfie was disrupting other visitor's experiences.  I hung around for a while, hoping to get a chance to take a photo or two without anyone clowning around at the base of the arch but eventually gave up.  I wasn't going to have the same thrill of having Delicate Arch to myself like I had at the Windows.

I drove around the park a bit more after that, making sure I had seen everything that I could in my short time there and returned to Moab to explore the town a bit.  Tomorrow I would be leaving the area and heading for my next destination - Goblin Valley State Park.

 

 

It has taken me over a decade to finally make a trip to Southern Utah to see the Mighty Five - Arches, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon and Zion.  Living so close to Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Glacier National Parks has instilled a love of the National Park ideal in me for ages. Protecting beautiful, unique places for all to enjoy - well, I can't think of anything better.  I've dreamed of making a trip to Utah's parks for a while now and until this fall I always had some excuse not to go.  Either it wasn't safe (for a girl traveling alone), my vehicle wasn't ideal, it was too far, the weather wasn't great...you name it, I probably made the excuse.  This year just ended up being THE year.  I was planning on making a joint trek south and at the last minute it was cancelled.  I was faced with the prospect of either cancelling my vacation entirely or changing my plans a wee bit and taking a trip I've always wanted to take.  Thankfully I chose to soldier on and go exploring solo.

As my life has progressed I've learned that when things are meant to be the details just sort of fall in place.  Only when there's any resistance to the ebb and flow of my life do I question my decisions.  That is just the case when it comes to my Utah trip.  Once I had set my mind to making a solo trip to the parks there was no stopping me.  I started by making camping reservations at various locations - mostly Utah State Parks - and laid out a rough route of which I was to travel.  Before I knew it - in a matter of hours, really - my trip was set.  Ten days, five national parks, four state parks, and one national monument on the itinerary with many hours of driving and many miles of hiking in between.  It was finally happening.  A trip that I have planned and longed for was finally coming to fruition.

At the start it was a bit of a rough go.  And as I said earlier I don't question decisions until there's resistance.  About an hour away from home I was having second thoughts.  It had stormed the night before I left - snow - and the roads were horrible.  I stopped to help a stranded traveler and was wondering if I was making the right choice to continue on.  I decided that it wasn't me in distress at the moment so I needed to keep going - it could only be better from this point on.  A few miles later an yet another delay.  This time it was a jack-knifed semi truck on a mountain pass.  I was considering again to turn back but I choose to keep going.  I soon found myself on dry, not icy, roads and decided I had made the right decision.  I survived big city traffic in Salt Lake City - I think this may have been more stressful than the icy roads I'm somewhat used to - and, while I was behind schedule, I felt that the worst was behind me.  I arrived at my first destination - Green River State Park - well after dark.  I had hoped to arrive in time to have a relaxing dinner and stretch my legs after making the 600 mile drive but it was nearly bedtime so I set up camp and called it a day.  Wherever I was, whatever sights were to be seen would have to wait until morning.

Panorama Point, Kodachrome State Park Utah

 

 

Is everyone still tired of hearing about the Great American Eclipse?  Don't care.  Still going to talk about it.

2017 Solar Eclipse progression, Grand Teton NP

I admit, the hype leading up to the eclipse was a little ridiculous.  It seems anything can be commercialized these days.  I tried to avoid as much of that as I could and just focused on the event itself.  I didn't need any cheesy souvenirs to mark the occasion.  I was just interested in witnessing firsthand an event that I have never seen before and, most likely, will never see again.  At least not so close to home. Having had a front row seat to a total lunar eclipse a could of years ago and being in awe of that I knew that I just had to see the solar eclipse from the path of totality. Even if it meant the possibility of dealing with large crowds and horrible traffic to do so.

So I set off with a rough plan, trying to make the most of an expectedly hectic trip. After an early departure Saturday morning I arrived in the Teton valley with one task in mind – find a campsite. In the weeks leading up to the event the local newspaper had been reporting that the crowds had arrived earlier than expected and were taking a toll on the city's resources. Grocery stores running out of food, gas stations planning extra fuel deliveries to keep up with demand, hotels sold out months in advance. My hopes of finding a quiet secluded campsite were fading fast. I had a plan, a back up plan and a back up back up plan for the trip so I was trying to be openminded. Never dreamed that I'd end up getting to camp within a quarter mile of my ideal spot. Especially since, upon my arrival, it seemed that every campsite had already been claimed. I just happened to time it right and came upon a campsite just as the current occupants were packing up and leaving. I quickly moved in (they didn't mind, they understood that campsites were in high demand) and rejoiced at my good luck. At this point my stress level about the trip dropped dramatically and stayed pretty calm for the duration. While Grand Teton Park and the town of Jackson were a bit busier than normal everything seemed to be going well. The park service, forest service and local first responders had been planning for months how to handle the crowds and I must compliment them all. I have to think that their heightened presence in the area kept the chaos to a minimum. While the park was busy and parking spots were in short supply I did manage to get out for a hike, do a little moose hunting and even managed to snag dinner reservations at one of my favorite restaurants in Jackson.

The day of the eclipse was a little rushed as I had to do a little last minute DIY work to make a filter for my camera. I had purchased a filter over a year ago in preparation of the eclipse and found out a week before that it wasn't the correct filter. Since every local camera shop and every website was sold out at this point I had to get creative. I channeled my inner “MacGyver” and fashioned a solar filter out of a pair of eclipse glasses, a heavyweight paper shopping bag and some duct tape. I cut the bag up to make a face plate and centered half of the pair of glasses into that then taped a paper sleeve to the backside that then slipped over the end of the lens. I was pretty proud of my little homemade filter. And while I'm sure I could have gotten better pictures with a proper lens filter I don't think I did too bad all things considered.

After cooking breakfast and packing up most of my campsite I walked across the road to an open meadow with a view of the Tetons to watch the eclipse. There were several groups of campers in the area and the excited chatter from them grew and grew as the moon's shadow progressed. I was happily snapping pictures, trying not to forget to take it all in and observe not only the sun but the surrounding area. The changes on land were just as amazing as the changes in the sky. When totality started everyone in the area started cheering and yelling. I, on the other hand, was speechless. It was so amazing. I wished that it would have lasted longer – being just north of the center of totality I had about ninety seconds to enjoy it. When the sun started to reappear I couldn't help but think “I can't wait to see this again!” So I suppose a little road trip may be in order for April 2024.

Once the eclipse was over it was time to head home. I had warned my coworkers that I wasn't sure when I'd return to work as I was expecting traffic to be horrible. Again, even with all the hype, the crowds were nowhere near what I was expecting. I sailed north through Yellowstone with only a small delay getting through the south entrance gate. There weren't even any buffalo jams to hold me back. I made it home in record time. All in all the trip was a success – no major traffic, no problems finding a campsite, and I got a decent amount of pictures to remind me of the day. Can't ask for much more than that.

2017 Solar Eclipse Corona

One might think that keeping your favorite places in such a busy park as Yellowstone a secret would be wise but most of my favorite spots are pretty mainstream so there's no harm in sharing.  I just hope that everyone obeys the rules and practices safe viewing and safe photography guidelines on the their visit.  These are the spots that I can visit again and again and never tire of the sights and sounds.

Porcelain Basin, Norris Geyser Basin

Norris Geyser Basin is one of the hottest, most active places in Yellowstone.  There's a little bit of everything here - geysers, steam vents, fumaroles,  pools, mudpots.  While the entire area is worth exploring (there's over 3 miles of boardwalks) my favorite spot in Norris is Porcelain Basin and the overlook near Nyphar Lake at the northeast extent of the boardwalk, about a quarter mile northeast of the Norris Museum building.  There is so much going on is this little corner of the basin.  Stop and listen for a minute.  There are several thermal features here under constant activity.  Steam hissing out of one vent little a teakettle.  Mud bubbling out of another pool.  Turquoise water next to rusty orange pools.  And all of this changes seasonally at the water levels in the basin change.  And if the thermal features here aren't enough then there's always the snowy peaks of the Gallatin Range in the distance.

Brink of Lower Falls, Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Forget Artist Point and Inspiration Point and Uncle Tom's Trail in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone.  The best views to behold are at Brink of Lower Falls.  Its the first stop on the north canyon rim drive.  The trail is a little rough (and due for a makeover like the rest of the trails in canyon, I hope) and steep (you'll descend 250 feet in half a mile) but the hike is very much worth the effort.  At the end of the trail you're standing right beside the Yellowstone River as it crashes over 300 feet to the bottom of the canyon.  The noise and the power of the river is amazing.  And the views of the canyon  from this perspective, halfway down the side of the canyon walls, is breathtaking. Whether you visit in the early spring when the ice built up at the base of the falls creates a "bridge" across the canyon, in the early summer when the water flow is high and the noise of the falls is deafening or later in the summer when its a bit calmer you won't be disappointed.

Geyser Hill, Upper Geyser Basin

Everyone knows the star of Upper Geyser Basin, Old Faithful, but how many never take the time to explore the area beyond the heavily trafficked boardwalk and viewing area between the visitor center and Old Faithful?  The loop along Geyser Hill north of Old Faithful can be just as amazing - especially if you're lucky enough to catch an eruption of Beehive Geyser (my personal favorite geyser) or Lion Geyser Group.  Standing on the boardwalk, a few yards away from the geysers as they are erupting is an amazing experience.  The noise and the power that you witness is unbelievable.  And then there's Anemone and Aurum and Ear Spring and Pump and....well, you get the idea.  Its a beautiful place to see.  The boardwalk extends further, and is well worth exploring if you have the time, to even more amazing places like Castle Geyser, Grand Geyser, Riverside Geyser, Morning Glory Pool and all the way to Biscuit Basin.  I've explored the entire boardwalk and trail system at one time or another and I am always treated to something new - different geysers erupting at just the right time or wildlife (bears, bison, elk and coyote) wandering through.

Grand Prismatic Spring, Midway Geyser Basin

With Grand Prismatic Spring being the largest thermal pool in Yellowstone it's no wonder why it is one of the most visited and photographed spots in the park.  Whether you view it close up from the Midway Geyser Basin boardwalk or a little higher up from the new viewing platform along the Fairy Falls hiking trail you will see an amazing sight.  The steam coming off the geyser can sometimes be a little overwhelming and obscure any photograph so be patient and wait for the wind (which is fairly frequent and strong so hold on to your hats) to clear the view.  One day I hope to be able to see Grand Prismatic Spring from the air for the ultimate view - from a charted sightseeing airplane, of course, and not from an illegal drone/quadcopter.

Mammoth Campground, Mammoth Hot Springs

Okay, so a campground may not seem that thrilling but if you plan on camping in Yellowstone in the fall this is the place to be.  There is a large number of elk that frequent the area in and around Mammoth.  In the fall you can be at the epicenter of the rut here in the campground.  I've camped here many nights and I love sitting by my campfire listening to the bull elk bugling in the valley.  Don't plan on getting much sleep if you happen to visit during a full moon - the elk will be roaming around and bugling throughout the night.  Its definitely something to experience and always fun trying to determine where each bull is in the valley as they all have a unique bugle that they repeat over and over.  On one trip I was able to distinguish five different bulls based on their calls and relative location and listened to them for several hours as they roamed around.  And as a word of caution, always keep your distance from the wildlife.  The Park Service advises staying 25 yards/23 meters from most wildlife but I tend to stay a little further back during the rut - their behavior cam be even more unpredictable than normal so better safe than sorry!  The elk will invade the campground from time to time so be patient and wait at a safe distance while they wander through.  Its not uncommon to be stuck in your tent or car or in the restroom for several minutes while they graze in among the campsites.

Reflection at Grand Prismatic SpringGrand Prismatic Spring, Yellowstone

 

Photography is mostly about luck and being at the right place at the right time as far as I can tell.  This summer just wasn't for me.  Everywhere I went something just wasn't working in my favor - bad weather, forest fires, smoky skies, traffic.  That's not to say that I didn't get a few lucky shots, just that I really had to work for what I did get.

One of my best moments of the entire summer was during a trip to Grand Teton National Park in August.  The area had been plagued with smoky haze from wildfires across the west and doing any landscape photography was out of the question.  Most days you couldn't even see the mountains!  I ventured around the park, seeking out my favorite spots to see wildlife.  And I lucked out when I stopped to check one area where I typically find moose.  No sooner than I turned off the ignition in my car, I spotted a nice bull moose.  He was a little ways out so I thought I'd just wander around and see if he would venture any closer.  As I was scanning the areas around him I spotted two more bulls!  I ended up spending close to two hours watching  them and photographing them.  And it paid off.  The second and third bull ventured out of the willows right in front of me and I was able to get a few great shots of them as they walked past.  By this time quite a crowd had gathered - I had been the only one there when I arrived and by the time the two bulls made their appearance there were close to twenty vehicles stopped along the road.

Gros Venture Moose pair

Now I'm fairly certain that these three bulls are the same ones I've been following for a few years now.  Every trip to the Tetons I stop at the same spot and there is usually three bulls and maybe a cow or two grazing through the willows.  I've seen them on several occasions over the last five years or so.  There are two that don't seem to mind the flock of tourists that gather to take their photos and one that tends to hang back, away from the crowds.  On this trip that shy one is one of the bulls that walked right in front of me.  I've never gotten a good picture of him before, usually just a glimpse of his head through the willows 100 yards or more away.  I've dubbed these three bulls my "three moose-keteers".

Later that evening I stopped by to see if they were still out and sure enough I saw one of the bulls in the willows.  There was a cow moose nearby too.  She had to have been hiding earlier that afternoon!  Some folks were wandering by and asked what I saw so I pointed out the bull and cow to them.  Turns out they were visiting from Italy and had never seen a moose before in their lives!  I let them use my binoculars so they could get a closer look, they were so excited.  That was the second highlight of my trip (the first being the encounter with the bulls earlier that day) and I was so glad to share that experience with them.

The next morning I stopped again to see if they happened to still be hanging out in the same area but no luck.  Just a little further down the road I saw something in the shadows so I pulled over to check it out.  Two more bull moose napping in the shade of some trees!  Now at the time I thought that these two were the same ones I had seen the day before but after I got home and was able to review my pictures I figured out that they were two different bulls!  The antlers were just different enough that I was able to ID them.  Elsewhere on the trip I spotted two other bulls so in two days I saw a grand total of five bull moose and one cow.  One of my best "moose hunting" trips I've had in a while.

Camp near Fairy Lake, Bridger Mtns I spend so much of my time traveling across the state for my camping and photography adventures that I rarely take the time to enjoy the areas closer to home.  At least once a year I try to take a trip somewhere close by, usually an hour or less from home.  This summer's adventure was to camp near Fairy Lake in the Bridger Mountains and hike up Sacagawea Peak, the highest peak in the Bridgers.  I tend to travel a little further from town as the crowds at the closer, easier accessible areas tend to be a little too heavy on the weekends.  While the area was busy it was relatively peaceful.  And you can't beat the views.

Looking East from Sacagawea Peak trail, Bridger Mtns The hike up Sacagawea Peak starts out innocently enough, a nice dirt path winding through the trees, but quickly turns to a little more challenging trail.  Not too far into the hike you break out of the trees and really start to climb.  Then you get to the first ridge and are faced with unbelievably cold wind blowing over the range.  At least the trail levels out for a while at this stage.  Then you begin the final scramble, zigzagging up the trail covered in loose bits of rock.  The views are amazing and make the trek worthwhile - you can see for miles and miles in all directions.  I was not fortunate enough to see any mountain goats, one of the few areas in the state that the creatures call home, but I was rewarded with the great views and lots of wildflowers.  I almost wanted to stay a while longer to take it all in, unfortunately I had only packed a light fleece jacket and was quickly cooling down thanks to the unending wind.

 

I can't believe it took me almost a decade to make this trip! 

Black Butte Time for my annual trek to the Gravelly Mountain Range in southwest Montana.  I love this area, especially in July when the wildflowers all bloom.  The flowers only last a few weeks at this altitude so timing is everything.  The mosquitoes and flies, however, last all summer.

There's not usually a lot of animals at this altitude - around 9,000 ft - but this year I spotted a few elk, deer, and grizzly bears.  I was just settling down by my campfire when I heard something in the trees nearby.   Next thing I know a deer pops out and walks right by me.  A few minutes later another one.  Then all was quiet.  About an hour later I heard something again and swear for the amount of noise I was hearing I expected a T-Rex to come out of the trees but it was just a few deer.  Amazing how much noise their little hooves can make!  They wandered back through my camp later that night after I had gone to bed.  Hearing random footsteps outside the tent always gets the heart pounding!

 

Gravelly Range Wildflowers The next morning on my travels I stopped at a spot just a few miles away from camp to take a look around when the thought crossed my mind that this was the only spot in the entire mountain range where I have seen a grizzly bear.  This area is prime grizzly country with many sightings reported throughout the year but I had only ever seen one.  Just as I finished that thought I spotted something moving in the tall grass below me.  It was a grizzly roaming around and eating some of the wildflowers.  Now I was relatively safe viewing from a distance atop a steep cliff so I just stayed where I was and enjoyed watching the bear.  After a few minutes I lost track of the grizzly and started scanning the area, trying to locate it.  that's when I spotted a second grizzly!  No wonder the first bear moved out of the area, it probably heard or smelled the other grizzly and decided to move away.  I thought it was a little ironic to see the bears in the same area as my previous sighting a year or two before.  I'm just glad that I saw the bears in the morning and not the night before.  Hearing those deer in my camp made me paranoid enough!

Since the bugs were extra annoying in the Gravellies I decided to take a little side trip for my second night of camping and headed a little further north.  I still had to deal with tons of mosquitoes buzzing around and deer wandering through camp but at least there wasn't any bears (that I know of). 

Branham Cirque

Sinopah Mountain & Canoes This summer is off to an odd start - a triple digit heatwave in June!  In Glacier National Park no less!  When I saw the forecast predicting the heatwave I thought, "no problem, I'll just go to Glacier Park.  It will be cooler there!".  Boy was I wrong.  There was no escaping the heat.  Or the humidity.  It felt very strange to be walking across a snowy field at Logan Pass on my way to Hidden Lake and feeling overheated.  It was hard to resist the urge to just flop down next to the trail and start making a snow angel in an attempt to cool down.  After that hike I decided that I would do the rest of my exploring from the relative comfort of my vehicle - with the air conditioning running on high.

The park did look beautiful and the wildflowers were beginning to bloom.  I didn't see many animals, I think they were hiding, trying to escape the heat as well.  Morning was the best time to explore as long as you got out early.  I only ever remember visiting the west side of the park in my childhood and only recently "discovered" the fantastic sights on the east side.  I think the Two Medicine area is my favorite.  Its not accessed directly from the Going to the Sun Road so its a little quieter there.  Walking from camp to the shores of Two Medicine Lake as the sun breaks over the mountains is so amazing.  That view can't be beat.

While my trip itinerary ended up including a lot less hiking than I had planned due to the heat I was glad that I was able to visit the park when I did.  Not long after I was there a wildfire started in the park and then another and another.  The rest of the summer was plagued with fires, road and trail closures.  

Morning at Two Medicine Lake, Glacier NP

 

Its easy to think of Yellowstone as a constantly changing place.  Wildfires, erosion, weather, etc. all play a role in noticeable changes to the landscape.  Smaller changes are happening in the thermal areas as well.  Channels of water change course creating new pools and enabling new microscopic life to thrive.  Old springs dry up and new ones form.  Even seasonal temperature fluctuations can affect the thermal areas.  If you're not a frequent visitor to the park you may not notice most of these changes as they can be very subtle.  Occasionally the changes can be quite dramatic.

For years the boardwalk around the upper terraces at Mammoth Hot Springs has been coming closer and closer to being consumed by the natural build up of the terraces.  While the boardwalks offer us a safe viewing platform to many of Yellowstone's thermal areas the boardwalks themselves can be a nuisance to the untamed landscape.  In Mammoth the boardwalks are often removed or rerouted as the terraces grow.  The super heated water underground carries with it the minerals needed to create new terraces.  Once reaching the surface, the water cools and slows and it can no longer carry the minerals and they are deposited, creating new terraces.  This cooling and slowing of the water often takes place adjacent to the boardwalks making them easily consumed.  This past spring a section of the boardwalk was highly unstable and had to be rerouted to higher ground.  Shortly before the boardwalk was removed a section of the ground near the boardwalk caved in making the need for a new path even more urgent.

At first I was disappointed to see that the route had been changed and the boardwalk moved away from the thermophile-filled pools that had fascinated me for years and provided many interesting photo ops.  That disappointment Upper Terrace Spring - Mammoth Hot Springs turned out to be short lived.  During one of my visits this fall I was excited to see that the area that had collapsed earlier in the year had turned into a bubbling new spring and was breathing new life into the area.  The spring itself appears rather small but there seems to be a great volume of water pouring out of it - enough to rejuvenate a large area of the terraces.  An area that was once covered in orange colored bacteria (more common in cooler waters) is now a large expanse of white and lime green filamentous algae (more common in scalding hot waters).  And further away the water flows into an area that has been dried up for many years.  That area was a dead, chalky white and is now thriving with a variety of organisms making the terraces a mix of golden hues.

 

When I started this site last year I had every intention to keep the blog updated with a post after every major trip.  All was going well for the first half of the year but the tasks of sorting, editing, and uploading photos and writing were quite overwhelming.  Those tasks took a lower priority to slightly more important things such as work (have to earn money to afford the camera gear, gas, etc.!), laundry, and the endless cycle of packing and unpacking my camping gear.  Now that winter has settled in I hope to catch up.

And, all in all, this may be for the best.  I find I'm a little less attached to the photos after a little time has passed and can be more objective while weeding through hundreds of images.

This past weekend I embarked on a trip inspired by something that we are all warned not to do.  I trusted what I read on the internet.  Going on blind faith I packed up and headed to Wyoming for a four day photography/camping trip.

I had heard rumors about a "gang" of bull moose that congregate in a certain area of Wyoming.  I love moose and my last few trips to Grand Teton National Park - which has always been my go to spot for moose sightings - have turned up mediocre results.  It is time to venture to new moose "hunting" grounds.

After a long couple of days driving and a few planned detours and side trips I entered what I hoped to be an area that would be packed with moose.  And for the first few hours I saw nothing.  Maybe the rumors weren't true after all.  Maybe I had taken a wrong turn.  Maybe the moose had moved on to another area.  But I was determined not to give up so quickly.  I ventured onto every side road and trail I found and sure enough I eventually spotted a cow moose and then, not one, but two handsome bull moose grazing along the road.  I quickly grabbed the camera, parked my truck, and started snapping away.  My joy of seeing the moose was quickly interrupted by a group of ATV'ers passing through.  The noise from the ATV's spooked the pair and they ran across the road and into some trees.  I wish I had had more time to observe the pair but seeing them I knew that I was in the right spot after all and my enthusiasm for my journey was renewed.  I continued to explore that afternoon and into the evening to no avail.

Bull Moose in Velvet The next morning I got an early start - long before anyone had time to start up their ATV's - and set out once again to track down some moose.  I figured the odds were against me to find more moose in the same spot but I had to give it a try anyways.  I drove down the length of the trail and saw nothing.  I had turned around and was headed back when two whitetail deer bucks ran in front of me.  At least I saw something!  I was growing a little disappointed when I noticed a dark shape along the tree line.  Moose!  With the sun glaring in my eyes I snapped a quick picture just to document that I had now seen a total of four moose.  I glanced at the preview on my camera and noticed a second moose standing in the shadows behind the other.  The sun glare had blocked my view of him.  I pulled my truck to the side of the road and turned off the engine.  I knew they wanted to come out into the meadow to graze and hoped that if I was quiet enough and patient enough they would carry on about their day as if I wasn't even there.  And they did exactly that.  I sat quietly, uninterrupted, and watched as the the two grazed from the treeline, across the meadow, right in front of my truck, and up the hill adjacent to the road.  It was such a treat to just be able to have that experience, to be so close to them.

As much as I was enjoying my time with the moose I knew that I had to leave and start making my way home.  And along the way I spotted another five moose - two more bulls, a cow and calf and a lone cow.  While I would have loved to have seen the entire "gang" at once I was content with my moose encounters and hope to make another trip to this spot in the near future.

I guess you can believe some things you read on the internet after all.

Bannack's Hotel Meade Bannack (State Park) is one of the best preserved ghost towns in Montana thanks to the many volunteers who have repaired and restored the buildings over the years.  There are a few that could use a little more T.L.C. - walking across the creaking stairs and wavy floors reminds me of being in a carnival fun house.  A few of the buildings are in pretty good condition all things considered.  The Hotel Meade, which is one of the better preserved buildings, had a brush with near destruction this last summer when a flash flood swept through town and came dangerously close to the hotel's foundation.  Measures have been taken to assure that any future flood waters will be diverted away from the hotel.  The town did not escape from the flood unscathed.  A few buildings suffered minor damage while the assay office just down the street from the hotel was completely demolished.  Volunteers were able to recover almost all of the original logs and planks and rebuilt the office.  After a close inspection of the building I think they've done a fine job.  If I hadn't of known about the flood I never would have guessed that the office is actually "new".  It looks like its been there, untouched, for years.

While wandering through many of the houses my attention was drawn to the remnants of the wallpaper and floor coverings.  One would expect to see the ornate designs, florals, and muted colors that are associated with that period in history.  Instead, the walls and floors are covered in bold geometric patterns of black, red and turquoise amongst others.  I guess the original occupants needed something to brighten up their homes during the long Montana winters.

International Visiting Bannack and other preserved ghost towns is refreshing.  Its good to know that someone is looking out for our past.  All too often ghost towns and homesteads across the state are left in disrepair and are slowly vanishing.  Treasure hunters and scavengers certainly aren't helping matters when they take artifacts away from the towns.  As for me I'm happy just taking photos.

Garden Visitor Its easy to get caught up planning trips away from home in order to explore and take more pictures.  While I've found no shortage of outstanding destinations I've made an effort this year to not forget that I don't necessarily have to pack up for a weekend adventure; there's plenty of opportunities close to home.

I've driven by a local community garden many times over the years and have never taken the time to stop and enjoy the efforts of the volunteers who show up rain or shine to tend to the flowers.  The spring blooms included colorful tulips, irises, lilacs and many more.  And of course no garden is complete without a few smaller visitors making their way from flower to flower.

 

 

 

 

 

Spring is slowing taking over in Montana as winter melts away into a distance memory.  Flowers are blooming, trees and grasses are greening up and the wild birds are returning.  On a few recent excursions I seem to have found a bird Shangri-La not far from home.  Meadowlarks, bluebirds, ducks, geese, cranes, eagles, hawks, and owls abound along a stretch of river.  All in all I've been able to identify about 20 different species that call this area home.  Some days the toughest decision I have to make is where to point the camera.

Western Meadowlark

I've especially enjoyed watching a pair of, I assume, nesting short eared owls as they hunt.  I'll keep checking back periodically in the hopes that I will catch a glimpse of the chicks.

In Flight MealShort Eared Owl returning to the nest after a hunt

I've wanted to make a winter trip into the park for a long time.  My parents and I had gone on a snowcoach tour when I was a kid but I don't remember much, just that it snowed a lot that weekend.  And I took a trip about a decade ago on a snowmobile but that was before I was a photography nut.  A winter trip to the park has been long overdue.  Last winter came and went and I never found the perfect opportunity to make the journey.  This winter nearly passed me by as well.  I finally decided to just go for it and booked a seat on a snowcoach tour.  It turned out to be a great day.  If it wasn't for the blanket of snow on the ground I would have sworn it was spring - it was so warm and sunny!

Winter travel in the park does have its advantages.  Since travel is restricted to guided snowmobile tours or snowcoach tours the amount of traffic is considerably less than in summer.  The snowcoach driver still managed to find a few traffic jams though.  That is if you can call coming to a dead stop because there is a herd of buffalo walking leisurely down the middle of the road a traffic jam.  The animals tend to congregate on the roadways in the winter.  It is much easier and they use less energy to walk on the packed snow of the roads than to walk in the deep snow of the fields.  Winter is a rough time for all of the animals in the park - harsh weather and little to no food takes its toll so they do what they can to conserve energy throughout the winter.

Winter Bison Napping Elk

The geyser basins change dramatically in the winter.  The warmth of the thermal features keeps much of the area free of any snow and the additional water from the snow melt fills up pools and feeds springs that would otherwise be dry.  The lower temperatures of the water and air along with less sunlight also affects the thermal features.  Different types of bacteria and algae that aren't accustomed to the heat of summer flourish in the winter.  Colors in the pools change from the bright blues and greens of summer to cooler oranges and browns.

Bacteria Mat IIBacteria Mat near Pump Geyser, Upper Geyser Basin Yellowstone.
This formation was at one time a few blades of grass that blew into the waters of the geyser. Soon the bacteria starts to grow and forms intricate structures like this one.

All in all it was a fantastic day in the park.  I didn't get to see everything that I would have liked but there's always next winter.

Ask Winter Sunset IIInear Headwaters State Park, MT someone to describe winter in Montana and they'll most likely say "cold and snowy".  Well, we've had plenty of that this year.  We've enjoyed some unseasonably warm days as well.  Those are the days when I grab my camera and head out to alleviate my "cabin fever".  Winter offers up some unique opportunities for those brave enough to face the elements.  Morning landscapes are overwhelmingly white from frost and evenings offer up sunsets with an amazing palette of color.

 

While snow is commonly associated with the drudgery of shoveling sidewalks it can also be associated with leisure and transportation like snowmobiling, skiing, (my personal favorite) snowshoeing, and dog sledding.

From an outsider's perspective the sport of dog sled racing can seem a bit chaotic.  The starting line is crowded with spectators, trucks equipped with an array of supplies, mushers and handlers running around to prep the sleds, and, of course, the dogs.  At times the dogs can be barking so loudly that its hard to hear yourself think.  But they're just excited.  They know that, at any moment, they'll be put into a harness, hooked up to the sled, and will set off down the trail.

Some critics of the sport claim that its cruel to "force" the dogs to run.  They couldn't be more wrong.  These dogs love to run.  These dogs want to run.  My first experience with dog sledding was as a volunteer at a race in Alaska.  It was my job to "catch" the sleds as they came into a checkpoint.  My first reaction was something along the lines of "you want me to do what?"  How on earth are you supposed to catch 12 dogs and an 800 pound sled?!?  Well, its easier than it sounds.  The musher does most of the work commanding the dogs to stop.  I just had to make sure they stayed put by holding onto the harnesses of the lead dogs.  All the while they are looking up at me with big, puppy eyes saying "Please let me go, I want to run!"

From that day on I was hooked.  I love dog sledding.  And dog sled fans are the most dedicated fans that you will find anywhere.  We drive out into the wilderness and get to see the mushers and dog sled teams for a matter of seconds as they rush past.  Then we are left with nothing to do but check for updates online for hours, days, weeks.  The real fans are the people who will wait at the finish line and cheer the mushers on...even if that means standing out in the cold at three in the morning.

Race to the SkyA dogsled team rushes past at the start of the 2014 Race to the Sky.

While searching through 5 years worth of pictures getting this website up and running I revisited many of my past adventures – some more exciting than others.  But that gave me an idea to start off this blog with a quick recap of a few of my more memorable trips of 2013. Monument Ridge Wildflowers

The general theme to my camping trips this summer was rain.  Lots and lots of rain.  It didn’t matter where I went or what the weather forecast was when I left home; every destination welcomed me with a variety of storms.  I tried to make the most of the situation and packed up early only once.  My reward for toughing it out was the variety of wildflowers that I saw early in the summer.  My trip into the Gravelly Range over the 4^th of July was beautiful.  The Gravellys are famous for their wildflowers and this summer was exceptional.  There were fields stretching in every direction packed full of purple lupines, red paintbrushes, pink geraniums, yellow sunflowers and about a dozen others that I can’t even name.  I had never seen so many wildflowers in my entire life.  Sadly a picture just can’t do justice to such a sight, something like that needs to be seen first hand.

 

Great Grey Owl I

This summer was also memorable for a few “firsts” for me.  I saw a badger in the wild for the first time.  This feisty little guy (or girl?) went into a full defensive posture as I slowed down my truck to get a better look.  I was glad to be in the truck and not on foot as I’m almost certain it would have attacked me.  Another first for me was an encounter with a Great Grey Owl.  I had never seen an owl, any owl, in the wild before so I was especially excited to have this encounter.  I was out, about 30 minutes before sunset, trying to find a suitable campsite for the night when all of a sudden something obliterated the view out the windshield of my truck, swooped over the hood and landed on a signpost approximately two feet in front of my truck.  I first thought that I had hit some poor animal but then I realized that it was an owl that had flown right in front of me.  I quickly reached for my camera, took one quick shot of the owl, it turned its head around, got spooked and flew away.  But it didn’t go far, just a few yards to a more suitable perch in a dead tree.  I quickly changed lenses on my camera and started shooting.  After a few minutes I got brave and got out of the truck to get a different angle, afraid that I would scare it away at any moment.  But it stayed perched in the tree and was amazingly tolerant of me as I shot some more pictures.  As much as I was enjoying seeing this creature I knew that he/she needed to hunt down some dinner and I needed to hunt down a campsite while there was still a few glimmers of daylight.  As I was drifting off to sleep that night I could hear, faintly, a “hoo, hoo, hoo” call not too far away.

 

 

Pilot & Index Peaks at Sunset

I was able to cross a couple of photo opportunities off of my bucket list this summer as well.  The first being a gorgeous sunset with Pilot and Index Peaks silhouetted against a yellow and crimson sky.  I got a little carried away though – I knew that this was a once in a lifetime opportunity to capture this sunset from my perch along the Morrison Jeep Trail – and I took close to 100 pictures with different angles, exposures, everything I could think of to make sure that I could come home with some great shots.  Another opportunity came late this fall when I happened across two fairly large bull moose.  This pair was wandering together through a meadow adjacent to a highway and had quite an audience.  At first they were just walking and eating but as they got closer to the road they turned to face one another and started to fight!  It wasn’t a serious fight to the death but more of a play fight for our (myself and the other folks who had stopped along the road) benefit.  I was thrilled to have this battle playing out right in front of me especially since this summer yielded very few moose sightings.

 

I can only hope that 2014 brings some new adventures as I continue to explore the backroads of Montana.